![]() These two ways require some practice and experimenting which is also valid for every ML function, but once you get used to them, the results are really rewarding and well worth the effort. Metering and focusing in this mode is a pain - it takes too long the camera to respond, but once you have the settings right, the timelapse looks very smooth and quality is gorgeous! Caveat: Maximum resolution on the 100D is limited to 2520x1080, (at 5x magnification). Caveat: At certain intervalometer settings, the time lapse may look a little choppy since there is some dead time between frames.Ģ) In the Movie mode and FPS override set to some small vallue, say 1 fps. ![]() When you are ready, you change the preview to Off and start the actual time lapse. With the Canon preview set to Hold, you can take a test frame to check focus, exposure and composition and make corrections if necessary. It provides time lapse sequences in the full sensor resolution, also called FRSP. This is the old classical "gradient" way that has been working for years. Here is what I usually do:ġ) In the Photo mode, with the Silent module, Intervalometer and Life View active. Obviously, it is a bug on the 100D but there are still much better ways of shooting time lapses that will also provide better results in terms of quality - no desqueezing (and quality loss) required in post. Thanks for noticing this, OlRivrRat and Dfort. CCanon EOS Rebel SL1/100D Magic Lantern Clean HDMI Output Magic Lantern allows you to use an external HDMI recording device, by removing the focus bo.
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